Voidokilia beach from the dunes

Voidokilia is a sandbar bent into an almost closed ring, with the Gialova lagoon behind it and the open sea in front, and it is empty in the literal sense: it lies inside a Natura 2000 site, so there is no road onto the sand, no taverna, no sunbeds and no lighting. The shape is the subject, and the shape only reads from height.

The standard frame is from the path up to Old Navarino castle on the northern headland, where the whole omega of sand and both bodies of water fit one wide lens. Ten minutes up is enough for a good angle; the full climb takes thirty. At sea level, work the water's edge on the lagoon side, where the sand is firm, the reflections are still and the dunes give a clean, low horizon.

The bay faces west, so it takes the whole sunset and holds colour in the shallows well after. Wind is the main variable — the Ionian side can blow hard by midday, which flattens the water and moves sand. Keep to the marked boardwalks and paths: the dunes are the protected part and are easily damaged. Park at the eastern end and walk in; the last stretch is on foot whatever you drive.