The arched bridges at Kipoi

Around the village of Kipoi, three of the finest old bridges in Greece stand within a couple of kilometres of each other. The Kokkoris, also called Noutsos, is a single tall arch over a stony river bed with a rock face rising directly behind it. The Plakida, universally known as the Kalogeriko, is three linked arches of different heights that ripple across the stream like a set of waves. Both were built by local masons in the eighteenth century for mule trains, and both are still crossable on foot.

They photograph completely differently. The Kokkoris wants a low angle from the river bed, so the arch frames sky and the cliff fills the top of the picture. The Kalogeriko wants distance and a side-on view, so all three arches read at once; the classic frame includes their reflection when the water is high enough.

Both are a few metres off the road with small pull-ins, so they are easy to combine in one session — no walking to speak of, which makes them a good pairing with the gorge viewpoints for anyone who cannot manage a path.

Late afternoon is the hour: warm light on grey stone, and the shade of the ravine keeps the contrast manageable. In spring the river runs full and green; by August it may be dry stones. The bridge decks are cobbled, humped and slippery when wet — take care crossing.