The clocktower above Poros town

The clocktower stands on the highest point of the little peninsula that Poros town covers, and it is the reason the town reads as one shape from the water. Getting up is a ten-minute climb through stepped lanes behind the harbour — whitewashed walls, geraniums, cats, the occasional cat-sized doorway — and the climb is half the session.

At the top there is a small paved terrace around the tower. From it you look straight down onto terracotta roofs, then across the channel to Galatas and the lemon-covered hills behind it, with the Peloponnese mountains closing the view. It is the sunset spot in town, and there is room for a handful of people, not a crowd.

Go up for golden hour and stay for blue hour: the town lights come on below while the sky is still holding colour. The lanes on the way up are steep and uneven, so flat shoes; there is no shade on the terrace, and it can be windy. People live along the route — keep the group small and quiet.