Damouchari cove

Damouchari is the only natural harbour on the eastern Pelion coast, and it is barely bigger than a courtyard: a horseshoe of grey pebbles, a stone jetty, a handful of houses and tavernas, and the ruins of a small medieval tower on the headland above. Cars stop at the top of the hill, so the cove itself is quiet and walkable.

The water is the reason to shoot here. It runs from clear to deep green over the pale stones, and on a still morning the reflections off the rock walls give the whole cove a soft bounce light. The old stone slipway and the low walls around it are worn smooth and photograph as clean, uncluttered lines.

There are effectively two coves: the small one with the tavernas and, over a short rocky path, a second with the tower ruins above it. Both work; the second is emptier. Neither has much shade, and the pebbles are hard on bare feet — bring something to stand in.

Mornings are best. The cove faces east, so it gets the sun early and loses it behind the mountain in the late afternoon, which is the opposite of most Greek beaches. In July and August the tavernas are busy from noon; in May, June and September it is close to empty.