The Steno lane through Apollonia

Apollonia is not one village but several that grew into each other across a saddle in the hills, and Steno — literally 'the narrow' — is the lane that stitches them together. It is paved in white-jointed stone, closed to cars, and lined with bakeries, jewellers and small bars whose tables spill into the two metres of street.

For photographs the lane gives you repeating verticals: whitewashed walls, blue and green doors, steps every few metres, and bougainvillea thrown over the top. Shoot along its length to stack the arches and doorways, or turn into the side alleys, which are emptier and hold reflected light for longer. Artemonas, ten minutes uphill, adds the grander frames — neoclassical mansions with painted ironwork and gardens behind their walls.

Early evening is the moment: the stone holds warmth, the lamps come on, and the lane fills with people walking rather than sitting, which reads better in a photograph than an empty street. Mid-morning is the second choice — quiet, but the high sun blows out the whitewash. Avoid Friday and Saturday nights in August, when Steno is genuinely crowded until two in the morning.