The stone lanes above the port

Behind the quay the town climbs in steps. The lanes are just wide enough for two people and a loaded mule, paved in stone, walled in whitewash and grey masonry, with bougainvillea over the doorways and cats on every wall. Two or three turns up from the water the noise stops completely.

For portraits this is the shaded half of the island. The alleys are deep enough to stay out of direct sun through the middle of the day, which makes them the answer when a session lands at noon and the harbour is glaring. Climb far enough — towards the Lazaros Koundouriotis mansion, or higher on the path to the monastery of Profitis Ilias — and the frames open out over the roofs to the harbour and the sea.

Two courtesies: these are people's front doors, so keep gear tight and voices down, and give way to the mule trains, which have right of way and no brakes. The climb is real, so heels are a bad idea; bring them in a bag for the quay instead.